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Take
one of the boats, usually called excursion boats, that leave the
harbor each morning, between 9 and 11 am, for a full-day excursion
to Skopelos and Alonnisos.
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Catch one of the larger, purpose-built boats - size of your vessel
makes a big difference in rough seas.
In bad weather smaller boats usually remain at anchor. In order to
avoid seasickness, don't stay inside, focus on the horizon, get
fresh air and breath deeply.
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Skopelos
is one of the most beautiful Aegean islands. It has two main towns.
The capital and chief port, also named Skopelos, is
a complex and delightful cobblestone maze stacked up against a
hillside.
The best way to arrive is by the sea, with the town
revealed slowly as the boat pulls into the harbor. The houses are
jammed together along narrow and oddly curving alleys, their windows
capriciously placed, their balconies awash in flowers. The
waterfront is lined with tavernas, cafes, tourist offices and
boutiques. A stroll to the top of the town brings you to the oddly
whitewashed ruins of the Venetian castle.
Glossa
is the island's second town, a winding three kilometers up the hill
from Loutraki, the small port with its thin pebble beach. It is
another whitewashed delight and considerably quieter than the
capital.
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The rest of the island is rich in vegetation, with wind-swept pines
growing down to secluded coves, wide beaches and terraced cliffs.
The most popular beaches are all on the sheltered south-west coast.
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Alonnisos
is one of the friendliest and least touristed islands in Greece. It
is an island for the energetic, particularly for walkers, hikers,
swimmers and snorkellers. The population, mostly farmers and
fishermen, live almost exclusively in the fertile southern part of
the island. In 1965 a violent earthquake destroyed the hilltop
capital of Alonnisos town (now called Old Alonnisos or Chora). The
entire population abandoned their homes and moved to the previously
unimportant anchorage of Patitiri.
All boats dock at the almost circular mini-port of
Patitiri, not
the best introduction to the island. The flat-roofed concrete
buildings are relieved only by a row of bars and near-identical
restaurants along the waterfront. Not a picturesque place, but
nevertheless has a very relaxed atmosphere. Boats may be hired at Patitiri to visit any of the surrounding small islands.
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The best thing you can do is to walk up to Old Alonnisos,
a fine but steep fifty-minute walk via a donkey track - signposted
on the left just outside Patitiri. Old Alonnisos, a tranquil,
picturesque place with lovely views, has a strange appearance.
The
village, reconstructed in the old style, is now full of expatriates
and wealthy Germans and Britons who bought the derelict houses and
renovated them.
A growing community of artisans have set up a shop
and their wares are exhibited in the little stores along the main
path through the village.
The Paraport taverna, at the top of old
Alonnisos village, has delicious food and probably the best view on
the island. |
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